The Royal Capital
My only visits to Luang Prabang were during my time with VSO only when I helped service to Lao National Radio there. We were privileged to receive invitations to royal events as we were considered not only foreign aid personnel, but also working under the Ministry of Information.
In 1969–1970, Luang Prabang remained the ceremonial heart of the kingdom under King Savang Vatthana. The town moved at a monastic rhythm: temple drums marking the hours, novices sweeping courtyards at dawn, and the Mekong drifting past as it had for centuries. Despite the wider conflict in the country, Luang Prabang preserved an atmosphere of calm formality — a place where court protocol, Buddhist ritual, and traditional Lao culture continued with remarkable continuity. The royal palace stood at the centre of this world, symbolizing a monarchy balancing modern diplomacy with deep cultural roots.
SECTION 2 Luang Prabang 1969-1970
Royal Palace Luang Prabang 1969
Elegant entrance to the Royal Palace in Luang Prabang, where King Savang Vathana lived until he was exiled in 1975
Princesses Luang Prabang 1969
Dressed in beautiful silk dresses and armed with silk parasols these princesses in Luang Prabang in 1969 prepare for a parade.
View of royal palace from Phou Si Luang Prabang 1969
A commanding view of the royal palace from Phou Si with the Mekong River in background.
Luang Prabang river 1969
The Nam Khan river joins the Mekong River in Luang Prabang, providing a complementary set of views. The long dugouts (pirogues) provide river transport.
Luang Prabang main street 1969
A variety of cars line the main street in advance of the funeral procession
State funeral procession in Luang Prabang 1969
Wreaths lead the state funeral cortege as it proceeds to the sports field. The urn can be seen in the distance.
Musician group leads procession Luang Prabang 1969
The instruments are quite large and heavy so a team is appointed to carry them
Funeral instruments prepared Luang Prabang 1969
The Lao circular xylophone and drums together with their musicians at start of funeral proceedings
Ceremonial spear-bearers in parade Luang Prabang 1969
Their presence is part of the symbolic ritual – to protect from evil spirits. They are only seen at high-ranking funerals when dignitaries are present.
Prince Souvanna Phouma in procession Luang Prabang 1969
The state funeral is for a high-ranking government official, hence the presence of Prime Minister Souvanna Phouma in the parade.
Elderly man in funeral procession Luang Prabang 1969
An elderly man walks with his stick – perhaps a relative of the deceased.
Funeral instruments prepared Luang Prabang 1969
The Lao circular xylophone and drums together with their musicians at start of funeral proceedings
Boy scouts ahead of the large urn Luang Prabang 1969
Symbolising the youth of the nation these boy scouts play an important role
The funeral urn Luang Prabang 1969
The order of the various elements is very important:: barefoot spear-bearers, boy scouts, monks, urn, dignitaries with wreaths, followed by Prince Souvanna Phouma and entourage
Wreath-bearer in procession Luang Prabang 1969
The inscription suggests the funeral is of a high ranking official in region 3.
Spear-bearer in procession Luang Prabang 1969
The spear-bearers are traditionally included to protect the participants from evil spirits
Setting of cremation outside Luang Prabang 1969
Idyllic setting for this elaborate funeral ceremony.
Funeral urn arrives Luang Prabang 1969
The urn finally arrives at cremation site where it will be lifted into place with much ceremony
Funeral urn in place for cremation Luang Prabang 1969
The urn is now in place, the wreaths are on display, the official observe from a distance under special awning.
Putting funeral urn in place Luang Prabang 1969
Final adjustments to position of funeral urn while guards look on.
Adjustments made behind curtain Luang Prabang 1969
The elaborate process of preparing the body for cremation is underway behind this curtain.
Smoke rises as cremation underway Luang Prabang 1969
Officials look on as smoke rises indication cremation underway.
People leaving cremation site Luang Prabang 1969
People start to leave the scene as the cremation is well underway.
Radio station Luang Prabang 1969
Lao National Radio station in Luang Prabang located opposite the Royal Palace against background of Phou Si. At Lao New Year in April the candlelit Naga procession would descend from the top and enter the palace grounds. It was magical.
Luang Prabang radio studios 1969
This control room and studios shows gramophone decks opposite tape players
Transmitter Station plaque Luang Prabang 1969
Opened by the Crown Prince in March 1969 this plaque records that significant event as Lao National Radio went on air in the royal capital
Chris and Brian with Hmong Girls Luang Prabang 1970
We were in Luang Prabang for Lao New Year but took opportunity to record music from ethnic minorities including these two Hmong girls
The Lao National Radio station that once stood on Sisavangvong Road, directly beneath Phou Si and opposite the Royal Palace, did not survive the political and urban transformations that followed 1975. After the establishment of the Lao PDR, national broadcasting was fully centralised in Vientiane, and the Luang Prabang facility was downgraded to a provincial relay. During the 1990s, as part of the UNESCO World Heritage redevelopment of the historic centre, the non‑heritage radio buildings were removed to restore the ceremonial streetscape around the former Royal Palace. Nothing of the original station remains today; its former site has been absorbed into the modern fabric of shops and guesthouses, leaving only memories and photographs to mark its brief but culturally significant role in the late Royal Lao period
Lao Radio transmitter site Luang Prabang 1969
Out of town a short distance this station provided mediumwave coverage for the immediate area around Luang Prabang
Mediumwave transmitter Luang Prabang 1969
This low-power mediumwave transmitter provided adequate coverage for Luang Prabang and surrounding area
LNR Control room equipment Luang Prabang 1969
Equipment provided by Marconi fills the racks in the studio control room connecting LP with the main station in Vientiane
Nam Khan river joins Mekong Luang Prabang 1969
Luang Prabang lies at the confluence of the Nam Khan river with the Mekong. Airport can be seen on right
Cercle Soiree Programme Cover Luang Prabang 1970
An ornate design for the cover of the programme for the Cercle de Luang Prabang Soiree
Cercle de LP Soiree programme Luang Prabang 1970
A mistaken identity suggested we were attending with British Ambassador Smedley, so we were seated adjacent to Crown Prince
Lao New Year Palace invitation Luang Prabang 1970
A very special and memorable event in the grounds of the Royal Palace in 1970. Out of this world!
Programme for Palace New Year Soiree Luang Prabang 1970
This event was magical – especially the descent of the Naga from Phou Si to celebrate the first day of Lao New Year 1332
Princesses in Luang Prabang 1969
Elegant Lao princesses in a parade along the main street of Luang Prabang on the occasion of Lao New Year. Note the silk parasols and Lao ‘sinh’ skirts.
Princesses Luang Prabang 1969
Princesses on parade in Luang Prabang during funeral of the king’s uncle complete with their silk parasols.